David vs Goliath

Many times I have entered the ocean facing my fears. As a young man I was defeated over and again and very nearly gave up on my quest to slay the giant waves I wanted to ride so badly. But I persevered and eventually triumphed over the colossal mountains of moving water and churning white wash that can tame anyone. Every time I paddle out into large swells I remember the lessons from the past and how to emerge from the surf each time having survived another session.

Part of the Ocean Air series. A collection of abstract ocean art captured using aerial photography.